For the first time ever, I wasn’t able to be home with my family for Christmas. I’m currently dealing with some restrictions here in Europe that don’t allow me to leave the continent. And though I thought it would all be cleared up in time for the holidays, it didn’t work out in my favor. So instead of wallow in self-pity and spend my time off holed up in my apartment, I decided to do some last-minute traveling. That’s the one of the best things about living in Prague: a handful of countries are only a train ride away! I booked a round-trip ticket to Krakow and a cheap AirBnB, and decided to make the most of a bad situation.

The main reason I decided to go was to visit Auschwitz, a place I’ve always wanted to see. As a World War II buff, I’ve read countless books on the Holocaust and knew I needed to see the concentration camp for myself. You might be thinking, “What a strange way to spend the holidays…” but the experience was enriching in ways I can’t even explain. I strongly believe it’s something everyone needs to see at least once in their life. It was one of the most emotionally and physically exhausting days (the experience was 7 hours in total), but I’m glad I took the plunge and went. I spent the first day of my trip at Auschwitz and the second day exploring the city of Krakow.

Auschwitz I

Most people don’t realize that there are actually two camps at Auschwitz. The first, Auschwitz I, was where it all started but is much smaller than the second. When my tour group and I arrived at the site, sheets of freezing rain were falling on our heads as we stood outside waiting to go through security. The outside of the facility looks like just another tourist site, until you pass through the gates and into the actual camp. You walk through a little building, get checked by security, and are given your headset for the tour. And then there you are, right in the middle of all the photos you’ve seen and stories you’ve heard. Despite the chilly weather, I knew that my goosebumps were due to something far greater than the cold.

What struck me most about the site was how much it resembled a college campus. Strange, I know, but our tour guide pointed out that it was probably not what we were expecting to see. There were trees lining long pathways, with beautiful brick buildings on each side. The site of Auschwitz I was built way before World War II began and served other army-specific purposes before it was used as a prison camp.

We were taken inside certain blocks of the camp, where our tour guide explained the “extermination” selection process and how the Nazis tried to convince everyone that the prisoners knew they were heading to death camps. But after seeing what these people brought with them, how could you believe that? They brought face cream and table brushes and carrot peelers. Why would you bring all that with you if you knew it would just be taken away?

My group and I were shown two tons of hair taken from prisoners that was sold to companies who would use it to make rugs. The companies pretended they didn’t know where it came from, but the bags they received had “KLA” (Konzentrations-Lager-Auschwitz) written on them. The rows of inmate head shots, piles of eyeglasses and shoes, and the preserved urn of ashes help put into perspective just how many people lost their lives.

In one of Auschwitz I’s blocks, we were shown standing cells, which were only about 10 feet in length. 4 to 5 prisoners were forced to stand in them all night, and then go to work the next day. This punishment lasted upwards of three days, usually even longer. And we also visited the aptly-name “suffocation cell,” which could up to 40 prisoners and had one airhole the size of three bricks. The Nazis were not only trying to eradicate an entire race of people, they had come up with horrible ways to do so. Worst of all was the gas chamber, which we toured last. The Nazis told the prisoners to hang up their clothes on numbered racks and to memorize their number, because they’d be coming back for them after showering.

As we now know, this never happened. Cyclone B (cyanide-based poison) was released from holes in the ceiling and in 20 minutes, every prisoner in the chamber was dead and taken to the crematorium. This chamber is the only one of its kind left at Auschwitz, and walking through was the most sobering experience of my life.

Auschwitz II: Birkenau

The second part of Auschwitz is 30 times the size of the first, which was hard for me to wrap my brain around. This is where 90% of the murders occurred, and in both camps, over 1.3 million people were unlawfully killed. Birkenau could hold about 90,000 people in its barracks. As the fog began to clear in the fields, rows and rows of buildings came into views. Sometimes, all that was left were brick chimneys and foundations, because the Nazis torched almost all of the wooden huts before they abandoned the site. But the proof is there. We were able to tour one of the barracks in a sea of hundreds, but almost all of them are closed to the public. Unlike Auschwitz I, Birkenau wasn’t built to last and many of the buildings are caving in due to their two-ton rooftops and flimsy walls.

Our tour guide took us into one specific barracks of the two that are open: because this one had preserved walls with paintings on them. It was the children’s barracks. Fellow prisoners were commissioned to paint murals of kids going to school and parading around with drums and flutes. Most likely not to comfort them, but as part of Nazi propaganda…to show the kids what life could be like if they had been the “chosen ones.” How sick is that? As I walked around, I took in the rows of three-tiered bunk beds that the kids were forced to sleep on. What did they dream about at night? Did they comfort one another? The bottom tier was simply the dirt floor, and most people who slept there died from the cold because heat rises. There was simply no peace for these children, and the thought is almost too much to bear.

Our tour guide took us all around the camp, and we walked the same path that prisoners would take from the train platform to the gas chambers on the left and right. These two, and the others in the woods, were demolished before Allied forces came to free the camp. There is a large monument constructed for the victims, with dark blocks in the shape of overlapping tombstones–to represent the ones the prisoners never received when they died. The monument has 23 plaques that all show the same quote, but it is written in the different languages the victims spoke.

“Forever let this place be a cry of despair and a warning to humanity, where the Nazis murdered about one and a half million men, women and children, mainly jews, from various countries of Europe. Auschwitz-Birkenau 1940-1945.”

 

 

Krakow

The second day of my trip was spent exploring Krakow, a city full of history and beautiful architecture. I always like to give myself a day to just wander around a new place and see what I find along the way. My first stop was Krakow’s Old Town Square, which reminded me a lot of Prague’s due to the Christmas markets. The buildings also follow the same Victorian style, except for one right in the middle of the square.

At first, I thought it was an enormous church or synagogue, but as you get closer to the entrance, you realize it’s a huge bazaar. Funny enough, it reminded me of the indoor one in Charleston, South Carolina of all places. The bazaar was fittingly decorated for Christmas, and sold everything from painted porcelain mugs to wool-lined slippers.

Krakow is full of gorgeous nooks and crannies. It’s not hard to stumble across lovely little sites like these below.

After four months in the Czech Republic, I’ve learned that you can’t live here and not at least try their “pivo” (beer). I actually had Pilsner Urquell for the first time at my going-away party back in New Jersey, and have loved it ever since. So when my friends mentioned wanting to visit Pilsen and tour their famous brewery, I couldn’t say no. My friend Helen and I caught the bus after work on Friday night and by the time we arrived, it had started to snow. In Prague, there’s been a sprinkling of snow here and there but nothing that really stuck. Winter in the Czech Republic really is as magical as they say. Here’s what my friends and I saw during our stay in this cozy Western city:

The Great Synagogue of Pilsen, which when dusted with snow looks just like a gingerbread house. And it’s actually the second largest synagogue in all of Europe! The next day, we got to ride the second largest elevator in the Czech Republic at the brewery. But hey, both are #1 in my heart.

Helen and I went up to meet with our two other friends, Helen and Alex, at this cute little restaurant called Delish. And it was. After saying I wasn’t hungry, I had six chicken wings, a beer (you have to in Pilsen), and pistachio cheesecake. We walked through the snow to our AirBnB, which had great dubbed-over versions of “Married with Children” and “Sex and the City” on its TV.

The next morning, we had just enough time to check out the Pilsen Christmas markets in city center, which bookend the grand St. Bartholomew Cathedral. I love how festive this country is during Christmastime, and the care each city takes in setting up their markets. They’re just about everywhere in Prague, but I have to say that I was most impressed by the one in Pilsen. It had a carousel and a large bell for children to ring, and plenty of hot mulled wine and coffee.

And now for the main event: the Pilsner Urquell Brewery and Historical Underground Tours. I’d never been on a brewery tour before yesterday, so I didn’t really know what to expect. Except for the fact that we’d be getting a pretty sweet prize at the end. After exploring the underground tunnels of Pilsner (where the water for the beer was extracted for more than 100 years), we got to see where the real magic happens. The Pilsner Urquell brewery is enormous, and the company itself manufactures about six different types of beer.

At the beginning of the tour, we learned a bit about the company’s history and its intriguing origin story. Originally, the beer in Pilsen was actually kind of terrible, thanks to inconsistent recipes and poor quality ingredients. Many townspeople had “rights” to brew, so they could make their own beer at home. This led to the wide range of beers brewed in Pilsen, until Josef Brol decided to band all the brewers together and create one master recipe. “One pivo to rule them all, one pivo to find them…” They brewed the first Pilsner of its kind on October 5th, 1842. Now, more than 70% of beers produced in the world follow Brol’s distillation techniques and recipe.

It was great to get to try the malt and regional Czech hops that go into Pilsner pivo, but even better to try the beer itself. I’ve had Pilsner Urquell plenty of times, but never the unfiltered and unpasteurized version. And let me tell you, it was even better than I imagined. You can only try it at the brewery, and so they keep a certain number of barrels stored in the old cellars for visitors to try. We sipped our exclusive beer while standing in front of oak barrels the size of SmartCars and talked to a man from Indiana. He is a “basement brewer” as he described himself, and was so excited to be in an actual brewery that he was shaking. I thought about how he and my dad would’ve gotten along really well.

After our tour, we grabbed dinner at Na Spilce, a restaurant built in part of the brewery’s former cellar. Then it was time to hop on the bus back to Prague, and spend the rest of the weekend reading and relaxing at home.

 

 

Flashback to 2009: The last time my sister and I took Europe by storm (well, kinda). We were 14 years old and all kinds of awkward. So much has changed since then—shoutout to puberty—and almost ten years later, we got to spend time together across the pond once again. Back when we were in high school, our entire marching band spent a week in London and Paris while performing in two different parades. It was an amazing experience, and one I’ll always remember. I wish I could forget the neck wallet and sweatpants I sported throughout those seven days though…

Traveling with your best friend is always fun, but being over the legal drinking age and having your own apartment and a steady income makes it that much better. Katia is a true woman of the working world (and arguably my sugar daddy), and treated me to delicious dinners, a trip to the zoo and drinks at the Mosaic House on Friday night. We were finally able to swap birthday presents, and I made sure to get her things you’ll only find here in Europe. Since Kinder Surprise Eggs were just a fleeting childhood memory after being banned in the US, I made sure to buy her one. And Czech honey wine, and Austrian chocolate, and a “You Are Here” mug from Salzburg.

She brought over the PINK “Urban Bouquet” body spray that I’m not-so-secretly obsessed with, and she would’ve brought over a Wawa sizzli and a hot hazelnut coffee if they had fit in her carry-on bag. 😦 I can dream, right? Recently, my friend Kira and I were reminiscing about all the random things we missed about being home and about 80% of them revolved around Wawa and Chipotle. Girls gotta eat!

I had the best time showing Katia around “my city” every day, and seeing her face when she finally saw my fancy grownup apartment. We toured city center on a Tuesday afternoon, with barely anyone at the square or on the Charles Bridge. With the start of Prague’s Christmas markets, it won’t be that quiet again anytime soon. One of the best parts of her visit was going to the Prague Zoo, which I’d visited back in the summer. Both of our missions have always been to see a red panda, but at zoos back in the US, they were always either hiding or away sleeping. But this time, the very first thing we saw was the red panda! And even bigger surprise: there were two. The zoo here is one of the best I’ve been to. The two enormous polar bears there loved the colder weather and one even put on a show for the little kids watching him. He would kick off a rock with his feet and glide on his back to the children and touch his nose to the glass. Little did the kids know we were as excited as they were.

On Katia’s last day, we went out drinking and dancing with a group of my friends here. I’m glad I got to show her Prague’s night life: there are so many great places to go out to on the weekends. Her flight was leaving early the next morning and I had a cold, so we were more than ready to leave the club by midnight. It was so nice getting to host my sister, who was my second official guest in my apartment. (Hi, Michael!).

Calling this city my home is still surreal in the best way, and I’m so glad I finally had the chance to show it off to one of the people I love most.

Vienna

Schönbrunn Palace & Gardens. Landtmann’s Jausen Station. St. Stephen’s Cathedral. JUNN Bar & Kitchen.

After a long afternoon of traveling the previous day, I was finally rested and ready to take on the city of Vienna. I absolutely love traveling alone because it gives me the freedom and flexibility to do what I want with my day. To be honest, I usually don’t know what I’ll be doing until the night before.

During my first full day, I visited Schönbrunn Palace, and instead of waiting on line to go inside, I decided to pay the 3 Euros to enter the gardens instead. I’m usually much more excited to walk around the gardens than read plaques on antique furniture anyway. Bookended by black baroque entryways, the royal gardens are absolutely stunning. There are paths covered overhead by vines and a massive fountain in the middle of the grounds. Anytime I wander around palace grounds (which–lucky me–seems to be quite frequently), I can’t help but imagine what it had been like when actual royalty meandered along the perfectly manicured walkways–with their lace umbrellas and ivory-handled walking sticks a lá Marie Antoinette. To see people walking around now with their Nikon cameras and selfie sticks is such a stark (and hilarious) contrast.

All the while, I had been trying to track down this cute little brunch place I saw online. Turns out, it is located in the actual garden, hidden away behind a few rows of bushes. It was truly one of the most whimsical places I have ever seen, and was surely worth the wait. Vienna has quite the cafe culture and I found myself starting each day at a new one. And ending my days by taking myself out for a nice dinner.

After visiting St. Stephen’s Cathedral and paying my respects inside, I did something I secretly love to do: I went back to my AirBnB to watch Netflix and take a nap before dinner. Who says you have to keep dragging yourself around when all you really want to do is watch a few episodes of “The Haunting of Hill House” before dozing off? I say it’s all part of the experience.

Vintage Shopping. Mozartdenkmal. Thai Isaan Kitchen.

Recently, it’s been my mission to give myself a day in a new city to just wander around and do some shopping, (to anyone who knows me, this shouldn’t come as a surprise), seeking out that perfect vintage jacket and exploring small pop-up shops. I simply love seeing what I can find along the way. You’ll stumble across things you might not have seen otherwise, which was the case after my dinner at Thai Isaan Kitchen. I was on my way back to my AirBnB, when I hopped off my connecting bus and and realized I was mere feet from the Mozartdenkmal.

When you first walk in through the massive ornamental gates, you find yourself in front of a garden of red flowers and Mozart, illuminated in lights. It was so dark that I almost missed the most fascinating part of the display: the rows of flowers coming together to create a treble clef. Austria loves Mozart, and both Vienna and Salzburg rightfully claim him as their own.

Hotel Daniel Bakery. Belvedere Palace & Gardens.

I found myself at another popular cafe in the morning: Daniel Bakery, which I chose because of its proximity to Belvedere Palace. I just didn’t realize how close it would be, until I looked up from Google Maps and was standing in front of the wrought iron gates. Being the silly American that I am, I forgot how much antique beauty is present in European cities. Most newer buildings here are constructed around grand castles and cathedrals left behind by royal predecessors. The USA just doesn’t have this kind of history and it really does take one’s breath away.

 

Salzburg

 

Mozart’s Birthplace. St. Blasius Cathedral. Mirabell Palace & Gardens. Gasthaus Zwettler’s. 

I wasn’t sure what to expect before hopping on the train and heading to Salzburg. My Vienna AirBnB host told me that the city was super romantic, and as my single self picked up my single suitcase and headed out the door, I thought: “Awesome…” After I arrived, I started to understand what she meant. Similarly to Paris, Salzburg has its own “Love Lock Bridge” where couples can pay to have their names engraved on a lock and then attach it to the bridge. Don’t get me wrong, I love traveling alone and the freedom it provides me…but sometimes, it can be really tough to reserve a table for one, or stroll through a museum alone while you’re flanked by couples on either side. I hope to one day travel the world with someone special, but for right now, I get to be that for myself. And I realized that this city can be romantic for me too, because I’ve fallen in love with it. Sometimes, it’s just enough to be in love with life.

I have to admit that I became a bit choked up when I finally made it to Mozart’s birthplace. It’s the kind of landmark that sneaks up on you, because of its location in the city. The bright yellow building looks just like any other shop on Salzburg’s bustling street, until you realize why everyone is crowded around it taking selfies. I toured the room where Mozart was born and first learned to play the harpsichord. The first composition he ever wrote is on display…as well as some locks of his hair.

Did Mozart ever realize that people would travel from all over the world just to stand on the very same floor where he took his first steps and learned to read music? It’s like that Dr. Who episode, where Van Gogh travels to present day and watches as people crowd around his paintings just to catch a glimpse. For artists, a lot of fame is found posthumously…so for all the present day Mozarts and Van Goghs who wonder if their work matters: it does and it always will.

I ended the day with a traditional Austrian dinner at Gasthaus Zwettler’s, where I enjoyed pork schnitzel with parsley potatoes and cranberry sauce, along with lots of Kaiser Karl bier.

 

Hohensalzburg Fortress.

Picture this: I’ve just scarfed down a Big Mac and fries for lunch (don’t judge…it was a national holiday and most restaurants were closed), and am looking up at the Hohensalzburg Fortress at the top of the city wondering how the f**k am I gonna get up there?

For those who haven’t been, you can easily spend an entire day at the fortress. With an all-inclusive ticket, you’ll have access to three museums and the king’s private quarters, as well as a tour of the actual fortress (from the salt room to its torture chamber). Did you know that’s how the city got its name? “Salz” is German for salt and “Burg” means hill. That’s how Salzburg made most of its riches, through salt mining…and the reason why our wages are now called a “salary.” At one time, salt was more precious than money because of its preservative properties. The more you know!

The fortress is situated atop the city for obvious reasons: better vantage point and to keep out the peasants when they rebelled in the Peasants War. Certain leaders of today should remember to treat their citizens kindly before they also rebel. 🙂 Salzburg royalty embraced the gothic style, with golden ornamental walls, star-vaulted cathedrals and porcelain tile ovens for heating. And wow! The king’s private chambers has a toilet that is accessible from all floors…that’s true luxury.

Isn’t that how the old saying goes? Wherever I go, whatever I do…move to a new city, get a new job, rent a new apartment…when it comes down to it, I’m still me. The girl who can get so down sometimes that she scares herself, who cannot turn her thoughts off, who is terrified by the uncertainty of the future. I told myself that I came to Prague hoping for a change, not a fresh start. But I’d be lying if I said I wish my old problems had just disappeared the moment I stepped onto that plane at the JFK airport. It’s just this instinct of mine to distract or “lose” myself in something (whether that be a new job, relationship, experience) and momentarily forget about my troubles. But they always come back, and I shouldn’t be surprised when they do.

Conversely, when you take such a big step in life (like moving to a new country), people seem to assume that you’re nothing but happy and excited and hopeful. They ask, “Is it everything you’d hoped it would be?” And the answer is much more complicated than simply “yes” or “no.” I feel as though I am disappointing them when I say, “I’m not sure how I feel about it yet,” because this was supposed to be a decision that completely changed my life. But there are certain things about ourselves that we can never change, that stay with us no matter where we go and what we do. And it’s okay to admit that they are still there, deep down inside of us.

Even in the most beautiful city in the world, I still sometimes avert my eyes, stare at the ground and ignore the view because I am too depressed. Despite having an amazing job and getting to travel, I still worry about what I’ll do when this year is over. And this year has barely begun! But my tendencies to overthink and be hard on myself are ever-present.

What I’m trying to say is this. For myself and anyone who is in a similar situation: It’s okay to be “living your dream” and not always feel lucky, or blessed…or even happy all the time. It’s okay to say, “Yes, I’m living in mother-f*cking Europe but need to go back to my apartment and cry for an hour.” LIVING THE DREAM is a horrible paradox anyway. Because we live in reality and yes, it can be dream-like but it’s never perfect. It’s messy and confusing and beautiful, just like you and me.

What started as a trip to apply for my visa became a four-day solo adventure in Berlin, full of new friends and experiences. If you feel comfortable traveling alone, I firmly believe it’s something you should do at least once in your life (and especially when you’re young).

There’s a certain empowerment that comes along with planning a holiday all on your own: down to the AirBNB and return bus ride…not to mention finding various ways to entertain yourself in a newfound city. But it isn’t hard to stay busy in a city like Berlin, and meet some amazing people along the way.

 

Day 1: Brandenburg Gate & Holocaust Memorial

Today was all about applying for my work visa, and catching the 6:30 a.m. bus from Prague on time, which I almost didn’t do…but that’s a story for another day. After nearly barfing up my breakfast of corn flakes and coffee, I ran onto the bus and got some ~looks~ from my fellow busmates. When my group and I finally got to Berlin, we headed to the great Mall for lunch. I find myself wandering around the malls when I’m homesick, because they remind me of the Garden State Plaza Mall back in New Jersey. I’m glad super-sales and food courts are loved universally.

The most sobering part of the day had to be walking past the Holocaust Memorial on our way to the Brandenburg Gate. It is an odd looking exhibit, and don’t take it the wrong way, because that’s the entire point. The memorial is supposed to make its visitors feel uneasy and confused, just as the actions of the Nazis did…the farther into the exhibit you go, the more lost you feel. It is comprised of concrete masses of different heights that many onlookers try to give meaning to (my friends and I tried to brainstorm as to what the differing heights might allude to). Finally, I gave in and Googled it, only to find that they don’t hold any empirical meaning and are supposed to make people wonder. It’s a super controversial memorial, but it stands out in your memory long after you’ve left, so I think the creators did something right.

The Gate was under construction during our visit, but was still a beautiful sight to behold. Berlin is a city full of construction and graffiti…it sometimes feels like it’s still trying to define itself after its almost complete disintegration by fire and then the creation and destruction of the Berlin Wall. The city is certainly also full of rich history.

 

 

Day 2: East Side Gallery, Hackescher Market, Berlin Dungeon, Ice Bar, Little Big Berlin

After an amazing night’s sleep at my AirBnB (I went to bed at 8 p.m. with no shame), I headed out to the East Side Gallery, which consists of 1361 remaining meters of the Berlin Wall. In typical Berlin fashion, each section of the wall was commissioned to be graffitied back in 1990, with various artworks like the oh-so famous “Fraternal Kiss” between Leonid Brezhnev and Erich Honecker. After weaving through the couples taking selfies of themselves kissing in front of the wall, I got some pretty awesome photos of my own. I really enjoyed getting to experience this part of Berlin on my own, and allowed myself to see where the day would take me.

I didn’t expect the day to lead me to a dungeon tour, but there I was at 2 p.m., ready to embark on a creepy hour-long descent into Berlin’s spooky history. I think the couple in front of me noticed my mistake at going on this tour alone at the same time I did, and said I could stick with them. They were so unbelievably nice and I think our smiles are what got us in trouble…because for the rest of the tour, we were picked on by the castmates to be tortured in the torture chamber, locked in a cage and tried as a witch (who was accused of dancing around naked and casting spells). Anyone who knows me knows that’s one of my beloved hobbies…

After exiting the dungeon a la Tower of Terror (plummeting from the top story back to our holding cell), I thought I was just going to wander around the city until dinnertime. But the kind British couple asked if I wanted to go to an Ice Bar with them, and with the super hot weather, it sounded like the perfect plan. We also toured “Little Big Berlin,” a shrunken down version of Berlin that outlines its history over the past 400 years. Whoever made the graffiti for the mini Berlin Wall deserves a trophy.

 

 

Day 3: House of Small Wonders, East Side of Berlin & Alexanderplatz Square

One of the best things about traveling alone? You never know who you might meet. While grabbing brunch at this adorable cafe called the House of Small Wonders, I noticed a girl around my age sitting alone, leafing through the English section of the menu. After waiting to see if anyone was joining her, I asked if she was also American. Crazy enough, she was from New York City and in Berlin alone for a few days before heading to Munich for Oktoberfest. We hit it off really well and decided to get dinner before we both left. I was honestly pretty nervous to just randomly approach her (especially after saying we were “stripes twins” for both wearing striped shirts), but I got to talk with a super nice person and not have to eat alone.

I gave myself this day to explore vintage clothing stores, the craziness that is Alexanderplatz Square, and to simply immerse myself in Berlin’s atmosphere. It is so different from Prague: I think the industrial buildings stood out to me the most because Prague is such an old city. As is Berlin, but the “Burning of Berlin” took down many of its older buildings, and left some half-destroyed…which makes for an unbelievable sight.

Day 4: Berlin Botanical Gardens

Oh. My. God. There is a hidden treasure within the bustling city of Berlin, and that’s its botanical gardens. Two metal gates separate the metropolis madness from a quiet natural oasis…call me dramatic but it’s true. And all it cost to get inside? 3 Euros! I’m so glad I made it to the gardens before taking the bus back to Prague. After spending two months in a major city, I felt energized being back in nature. I chose not to work in NYC back home for a reason! City life can definitely take its toll, but it’s nice to know there are little escapes when you need them.

It was funny to see “typical” American plants have their own special sections in the garden, because to me, they weren’t anything too special. This happened at the Prague zoo as well, when my friends and I saw “North American buffalo.” But what’s run-of-the-mill to you might be totally new to someone else, and I think that’s something you can only learn through traveling. Your world view isn’t the only one, and you shouldn’t take what you have for granted…or assume everyone experiences life the way you do. But the only way to grow is to branch out…pun definitely intended.

 

 

 

 

Fall is finally here, and you know what that means: turtleneck sweaters, pumpkin spice, the crunching of leaves under your feet, and cooler weather. This year, Europe experienced one of its hottest summers since 1775…seriously, the phenomenon has its own Wikipedia page. So when I was finally able to bundle up a bit yesterday before grabbing drinks with friends, it was a welcome change. We spent the better part of our evening at the Letna Biergarten, which overlooks the central city. It’s the spot we went to on our second full day in Prague during the TEFL course, and we’ve certainly gotten wiser since then. Instead of trudging up 8+ flights of stairs, I took the tram to save my legs from excruciating pain. I love being an alumni now and getting to drink beers and chat with my former teachers…and not worry about drinking too much and having to see them in class on Monday.

After the majority of people left the biergarten, a few of us decided to walk to a jazz club near the city square and listen to a fantastic bass, drums and piano trio. I was getting major Vince Guaraldi Trio vibes from them (you know, the guys who play on the Charlie Brown’s Christmas album…no, just me?) Since Prague is such an old city, a lot of the bars are underground and even below other establishments. The bar I went to the night before was located in an old bomb shelter, and this jazz club contained about three different subterranean stories…with the actual concert hall being completely underground. You could hear the faint sounds of piano chords and bass beats from the main street.

You never know where the night might take you here, but it’s nice to know that home is just a short tram or metro ride away. If you’re a grandma-at-heart like me and enjoy going to bed early, there’s nothing better than catching the metro and walking home while other 20-something year olds are just starting their night.

17 days in my new apartment without WiFi…but who’s counting? It’s not for a lack of trying: I’ve gone to provider after provider, one who incorrectly entered my phone number into their system and as a result, the technicians couldn’t reach me to install the connection, I’ve had employees tell me they need to access my roof to connect cables…it’s been a headache-inducing mess. On top of switching jobs, applying for my visa, opening a new bank account and trying to navigate a huge city, I’ve had to figure it out alone. And I think that’s been the hardest part. And the most rewarding. I’m sure I’ve bothered the hell out of people with my questions and confusion, but I want to make sure I’m doing this all right. Imagine how good I’ll be at getting things done back in the States! I sometimes miss being able to go up to a random stranger or calling a service number and assuming they understand what you’re saying.

But this barrier has helped me learn more of the Czech language. I get to practice the days of the week, the months and the names of the seasons alongside my kindergarteners, and I’m actually retaining a lot of words (which are extremely hard but FUN to say). One of my students loves the metro and we recite the announcements together: “Pristi stanice: Kobylisy!” (Next station: Kobylisy).

Most days, I am utterly exhausted from my long days at school, but I’ve been making time to go out and meet new people. On Monday, I headed to a trivia night alone at a local bar and met an amazing fellow expat named Kate, who moved here three weeks ago. We laughed over the fact that I thought she had a Scottish accent when we first spoke, and as we walked back to the metro, discussed going to see an opera together sometime soon. You never know who you might meet here, and the first step is walking out of the comfort of your own apartment and into the world. (Especially when you’d rather stay home and watch a movie in your sweatpants). But thanks to my lack of WiFi, I don’t always have that option. On the bright side, maybe that’s for the best right now.

Even total shitstorms have silver linings.

“You’ll stand alone forever, if you wait for the right time. So what are you hoping for? I’m here and now I’m ready…” –23, Jimmy Eat World.

I am 23 years old today. It’s the first birthday I’ve spent in a foreign country, and the unexpected normalcy of it all is strange yet comforting. You never realize how it easy it is to become accustomed to a place until you’re waking up in your apartment, in your bed, and heading to your favorite coffee shop in another city. But these things that are now yours, weren’t yours a mere month ago. You left everything you had to come to know and replaced it with something brand new. A month ago, this apartment was someone else’s: they were climbing the ladder to their loft bed, making dinner in their kitchen, and following their own routine. And now it all belongs to you.

I sometimes miss home and think about what the people I love are doing. While I am finishing my work day, they are only just waking up and starting their morning. While I meet my friends for a birthday dinner, my sister will be making lunch. Her birthday is only just beginning, while technically, mine is about to end. And yet, I still woke up and had a text from her wishing me a “Happy Birthday!” I’ve always loved how (as crazy as it sounds), I celebrated her birthday and she celebrated mine. It was never “It’s our birthday today!,” we’d say “It’s YOUR birthday!” I’d make us a birthday cake, she’d set the table, and we’d exchange thoughtful gifts. The kind only a twin sister could get you.

When I left for Prague, I knew my birthday would occur pretty early into this experience, and I worried that I wouldn’t have anyone to celebrate with. But I have been blessed with some wonderful friends. People who are there to listen to and sympathize and offer to meet for drinks after a particularly long day. It’s the best gift I could have ever asked for this year.

I am here now and I think I’ve always been ready.

I won’t pretend that I didn’t know teaching would be both physically and emotionally draining—not after watching my mom spend most of her time at school—but I finally got to experience it firsthand this week. I began work as an English kindergarten teacher, and am working alongside a Czech teacher. She speaks to the children in Czech, and I speak to them in only English, so that they can learn both languages. It breaks my heart when the Czech-only children look at me with confused eyes and an unanswered question—I wish I could speak with them too.

We communicate with plenty of gestures and drawings, but there’s no better feeling than having a student randomly come up to you and repeat a word you taught them the day before. One of my students ran over with a photo of a kitty and said, “Cat! He says ‘Meow!’” These small moments making the tiring work a little better.

Young children are so willing to share their love and make you feel as if you’ve known them for years, and not just a few days. I’ve been observing Czech children since coming here, and it’s nice to see them entertain themselves on the metro with coloring books and puzzles, and not just with their parent’s cellphone. That is not to say I haven’t struggled with a few children, particularly some who use my lack of Czech to their advantage. But a stern glare is understood in every language, as is a hug.